Monday, January 28, 2008
Saturday, January 26, 2008
Friday, January 25, 2008
Thursday, January 24, 2008
Something for the Weekend - Edinburgh
It is little wonder that Edinburgh is one of Europe’s stag and hen night hotspots and an ever-popular destination for a short break. With late night drinking, a town centre compact enough to stumble through in almost any state of disrepair and more than 700 pubs, clubs and bars, ‘Embra’ is better equipped to cope with and entertain weekend revellers and trouble-seekers than most other British cities.Although there has been a bit of a style bar revolution in recent years, Edinburgh’s Cowgate, Royal Mile and Rose Street have all retained their reputations as homes to more traditional, rowdy pubs such as Biddy Mulligans, The Three Sisters, Deacon Brodie’s and Breck’s. On student nights and at the weekend in these old favourites, rugby supporters can come face-to-face with football fans, short-skirted hen night parties can find the stag party hangers-on they always dreamt of and freshers from Edinburgh’s universities and colleges can try desperately to sink that third tequila shot and squeeze the lemon in their eye.
For those seeking a more fashion-conscious and discerning clientele, George Street, The New Town and the streets around George IV Bridge and Bristo Square have suddenly become hang-outs for wannabe DJs, cocktail connoisseurs, young professionals and employees of Harvey Nichols. These bars are constantly vying with each other to see which has the edgiest décor, most eclectic playlist and most exotic top shelf spirits, and with booths, comfy seating and attractive menus of fusion food, some of the more notable ones are: Hector’s, Opal Lounge, The Villager and The Human Be-In.
Outdoor fun can be had by tagging along with one of the Old Town ghost walks. These depart from the middle of the Royal Mile every night and if you decide to go for it, you get to see the beautiful nooks, twists and crannies of Auld Reekie, hear about the city’s grisly past, run into some haunted souls under ground and have the wits scared out of you by the Hibs supporter who springs out on your costume-wearing tour guide at the bottom of Niddrie Street.
Of course no lads’ night out or messy weekend away with your student mates would be complete without the courtesy trip to one of Edinburgh’s late night spots. The choices are many and varied, ranging from pole-dancing and strip shows at the hilariously named Bottoms Up and Big Daddy O’s, to a cheese-fest at the Potter Row student venue and from folk music and drunken nonsense at Whistle Binkie’s to jazz and funk at The Jazz Bar and Cabaret Voltaire or indie nights at the Citrus Club.
Fortunately, the majority of the kebab and fast food shops in and around the epicentre stay open until after 3am, so you’ll be able to leave a club at kicking-out time and still get that deep fried Mars bar or battered haggis supper you’ve been longing for. You can even sit down for a pizza, a sambuca and a drunken food fight in Pizza Paradise at 4 o’clock in the morning, before braving the cold wind on North Bridge as you wend your way to The Scotsman Lounge or The Penny Black (both open their doors at 5am) to complete the famous 24 hour party that Edinburgh has to offer.
Who knows… if you’re lucky enough to avoid a killer hang-over after all your festivities, you might even get to do some shopping and sight-seeing on the Sunday. The imposing castle, Princes Street, Calton Hill, The Royal Mile, the Georgian New Town, Arthur’s Seat and Salisbury Crags all combine to make Edinburgh’s city centre arguably the most beautiful in the whole of the UK.
Niven Whatley
Niven Whatley
Food Glorious Food - Murcia, Spain
Forget the rich tomato and herb-based dishes of Sicily or the exquisite cuisine of Lyon, European food lovers looking for a taste of something truly fantastic should make their way to Murcia in the southeast of Spain.
Whether you are a die-hard carnivore, veggie all the way or a little bit fishy, Murcia has a whole range of culinary magic and fresh produce to satisfy your tastes.
Known in Spanish as “La Huerta,” the garden of Europe’s hot climate, effective irrigation system, population of skilled farmers and vast areas of arable land have ensured that fruits, vegetables, spices and crops can all flourish in harmony in this seemingly dry and rocky region. Every day truckloads of farm-fresh cauliflowers, chillies, peppers, lemons and aubergines are sent from Murcia’s fields to destinations all over Europe.
The region does however hold onto plenty of its own supplies, a blessing you will appreciate as soon as you sample the tapas dished out free with your first bottle of the local Jumilla or Yecla red wine in many of the bars, taverns and street-side cafes in Murcia, Cartagena, La Manga and in the numerous rustic villages surrounding the lagoon known as Mar Menor.
Among my favourite vegetarian tapas are: ‘cabra a la plancha con tomate’ (grilled goat cheese and tomato; ‘ensalada Murciana’ (a salad incorporating lots of the region’s finest vegetables); and the classic ‘tortilla’ (Spanish potato and onion omelette).
With its long, clean coastline and of course the Mar Menor (the name of the lagoon translates as ‘Lesser Sea’ and it is Europe’s leading centre for water sports), it is no wonder that the fish and seafood in this part of Spain are second to none.
There is something quite special about spending a lazy few hours sitting in the lengthening shadows by the marina in Cabo de Palos, watching the sun set over the white buildings and hills to the west, enjoying the lingering warmth of the calm breeze known somewhat predictably as ‘La Brisa’ and stuffing yourself silly with prawns, squid, ‘dorada a la sal’ and ‘mejillones a la marinera’ (mussels in a marinière sauce).
Sunday is the traditional family day in Spain, and in Murcia, that translates as an entire day spent preparing, cooking and eating (or of course simply going to a restaurant).
Locals tend to go for a ‘caldero,’ ‘arroz negro’ (a rice dish cooked in black squid ink) or of course for the classic ‘paella.’ If you get the chance, and enjoy a bit of fresh seafood, it is almost criminal to visit Murcia and not succumb to the pleasures of the best paella you will possibly ever taste.
With such juicy fruit and vegetables and such a selection of fresh fish plucked from the Mediterranean every day, you might be surprised that Murcianos even bother with meat dishes – but one trip to the famous restaurant Rincón de Pepe will cure you of your suspicions, in much the same way as the jamón, chorizo and morcilla hanging from the rafters have themselves been cured.
This restaurant has such a long list of tapas and main courses that it is impossible to know where to begin. Indeed whenever I went there with my partner’s family I dispensed with the need to select between one thing and another, and just opted for pretty much all of them! This is actually not quite as gross an act as it sounds, because they have catered for gluttons like me with a ‘Menú de degustación’ (tasting menu).
Seriously, and I really mean this, do yourself the favour of trying this place out, and pay particular attention to the simplicity and succulence of the ‘chuletas al ajo cabañil’ (garlic pork chops), ‘jabalí’ (wild boar) and ‘habas con jamón’ (Serrano ham with broad beans). Mmmm….
The only one thing that could possibly detract from a wonderful Murcian gastro holiday is not having enough time to sample all the great restaurants, cafes and tapas bars the region has to offer.
Niven Whatley
Whether you are a die-hard carnivore, veggie all the way or a little bit fishy, Murcia has a whole range of culinary magic and fresh produce to satisfy your tastes.
Known in Spanish as “La Huerta,” the garden of Europe’s hot climate, effective irrigation system, population of skilled farmers and vast areas of arable land have ensured that fruits, vegetables, spices and crops can all flourish in harmony in this seemingly dry and rocky region. Every day truckloads of farm-fresh cauliflowers, chillies, peppers, lemons and aubergines are sent from Murcia’s fields to destinations all over Europe.
The region does however hold onto plenty of its own supplies, a blessing you will appreciate as soon as you sample the tapas dished out free with your first bottle of the local Jumilla or Yecla red wine in many of the bars, taverns and street-side cafes in Murcia, Cartagena, La Manga and in the numerous rustic villages surrounding the lagoon known as Mar Menor.
Among my favourite vegetarian tapas are: ‘cabra a la plancha con tomate’ (grilled goat cheese and tomato; ‘ensalada Murciana’ (a salad incorporating lots of the region’s finest vegetables); and the classic ‘tortilla’ (Spanish potato and onion omelette).
With its long, clean coastline and of course the Mar Menor (the name of the lagoon translates as ‘Lesser Sea’ and it is Europe’s leading centre for water sports), it is no wonder that the fish and seafood in this part of Spain are second to none.
There is something quite special about spending a lazy few hours sitting in the lengthening shadows by the marina in Cabo de Palos, watching the sun set over the white buildings and hills to the west, enjoying the lingering warmth of the calm breeze known somewhat predictably as ‘La Brisa’ and stuffing yourself silly with prawns, squid, ‘dorada a la sal’ and ‘mejillones a la marinera’ (mussels in a marinière sauce).
Sunday is the traditional family day in Spain, and in Murcia, that translates as an entire day spent preparing, cooking and eating (or of course simply going to a restaurant).
Locals tend to go for a ‘caldero,’ ‘arroz negro’ (a rice dish cooked in black squid ink) or of course for the classic ‘paella.’ If you get the chance, and enjoy a bit of fresh seafood, it is almost criminal to visit Murcia and not succumb to the pleasures of the best paella you will possibly ever taste.
With such juicy fruit and vegetables and such a selection of fresh fish plucked from the Mediterranean every day, you might be surprised that Murcianos even bother with meat dishes – but one trip to the famous restaurant Rincón de Pepe will cure you of your suspicions, in much the same way as the jamón, chorizo and morcilla hanging from the rafters have themselves been cured.
This restaurant has such a long list of tapas and main courses that it is impossible to know where to begin. Indeed whenever I went there with my partner’s family I dispensed with the need to select between one thing and another, and just opted for pretty much all of them! This is actually not quite as gross an act as it sounds, because they have catered for gluttons like me with a ‘Menú de degustación’ (tasting menu).
Seriously, and I really mean this, do yourself the favour of trying this place out, and pay particular attention to the simplicity and succulence of the ‘chuletas al ajo cabañil’ (garlic pork chops), ‘jabalí’ (wild boar) and ‘habas con jamón’ (Serrano ham with broad beans). Mmmm….
The only one thing that could possibly detract from a wonderful Murcian gastro holiday is not having enough time to sample all the great restaurants, cafes and tapas bars the region has to offer.
Niven Whatley
Snorkling, scuba diving and caving in Mexico
Mexico may not be the first destination you think of when you are looking for madcap adventure, water sports and thrills, but when you look further at what this large and diverse Central American country has to offer, you will surely be surprised.
Beyond the fajitas, margaritas and (delightful) señoritas there is a world of adventure and experience waiting to be discovered.
The eastern states of Quintana Roo and Yucatán are usually remembered for American Spring Breakers slamming tequila and grinding in the Cancún clubs and for the huge and impressive Maya-Toltec pyramids and ruins around Chichén Itza and the Mayan Riviera. However this coast also looks out over the vast Atlantic Ocean, the warm Caribbean Sea and the turquoise waters of the Gulf of Mexico.
This has its pros and cons: the warmth, humidity and geography of the area makes it hugely vulnerable to the devastating effects of major storms and hurricanes, but it is also these factors that combine to support the world’s second largest reef, with its beautifully colourful marine life, stunning coral formations and breaking waves.
Beyond the fajitas, margaritas and (delightful) señoritas there is a world of adventure and experience waiting to be discovered.The eastern states of Quintana Roo and Yucatán are usually remembered for American Spring Breakers slamming tequila and grinding in the Cancún clubs and for the huge and impressive Maya-Toltec pyramids and ruins around Chichén Itza and the Mayan Riviera. However this coast also looks out over the vast Atlantic Ocean, the warm Caribbean Sea and the turquoise waters of the Gulf of Mexico.
This has its pros and cons: the warmth, humidity and geography of the area makes it hugely vulnerable to the devastating effects of major storms and hurricanes, but it is also these factors that combine to support the world’s second largest reef, with its beautifully colourful marine life, stunning coral formations and breaking waves.
Aside from the Great Barrier Reef in Australia, and perhaps a few choice spots in the Indian Ocean, this reef is unsurpassable as a place to pull on those flippers and dive off the back of a boat. Many trustworthy (and otherwise) tour guides, boat hire companies and independent instructors send launches out over the crystalline waters to the best locations for swimming alongside stingrays, multi-coloured dolphin fish and tiger sharks. Scuba diving and snorkelling are both well catered-for here, and if you pick the right season and the right day (not a windy day on the eve of Hurricane Stephan’s summer visit), the subaquatic sights you can see are astounding.
For those who prefer slightly more off-the-beaten-track thrills, a 3-hour trip inland can get you to one of Mexico’s unique ‘cenotes.’ These are inland, water-filled underground sink-holes, where years of water coursing along beneath the surface of the land has eventually led to a collapse of the limestone roof at ground level, leaving huge gaping holes above, and access to freshwater natural wells beneath.
In this part of Mexico there are few or no rivers above the ground, and the Mayans used the underground springs and cenotes as their source of water, their religious places and the locations for sacrificing virgins… nice! These days the burgeoning tourist industry organises trips for camera-bearing foreigners, and aspiring Jacques Cousteau types.
Cave diving is not everyone’s cup of tea. It can get quite dark and cold down them there holes, but if sinking beneath the surface of a watery cavern and dodging the huge stalagtites and stalagmites is what gets you off, Mexico is truly unrivalled, as no other country on Earth can offer such exquisite examples of this phenomenon.
Diving of a different sort is also a popular pursuit in Acapulco, on the Pacific west coast of Mexico.
Brave (or perhaps stupid) young cliff divers congregate in this part of the world, which Mexicans consider to be more of a Mexican-type holiday destination than those out west, to challenge each other and themselves to competitions of incredibly daring high diving tricks.
This is one challenge I would personally shirk, not trusting my coordination, agility and timing enough to believe that I could throw myself off those cliffs without plunging into a literally back-breaking belly flop at the bottom, but if you are that guy or gal, Acapulco is not to be missed.
With the ever-present danger of eating some dodgy beans and falling foul of Montezuma’s Revenge, most might think a day at the beach or a walk around some awe-inspiring pyramids is adventure enough, but with all that this beautiful and welcoming country has to offer in the line of adventure, all you thrill-seekers out there could do a lot worse than visit Mexico.
Niven Whatley
For those who prefer slightly more off-the-beaten-track thrills, a 3-hour trip inland can get you to one of Mexico’s unique ‘cenotes.’ These are inland, water-filled underground sink-holes, where years of water coursing along beneath the surface of the land has eventually led to a collapse of the limestone roof at ground level, leaving huge gaping holes above, and access to freshwater natural wells beneath.In this part of Mexico there are few or no rivers above the ground, and the Mayans used the underground springs and cenotes as their source of water, their religious places and the locations for sacrificing virgins… nice! These days the burgeoning tourist industry organises trips for camera-bearing foreigners, and aspiring Jacques Cousteau types.
Cave diving is not everyone’s cup of tea. It can get quite dark and cold down them there holes, but if sinking beneath the surface of a watery cavern and dodging the huge stalagtites and stalagmites is what gets you off, Mexico is truly unrivalled, as no other country on Earth can offer such exquisite examples of this phenomenon.
Diving of a different sort is also a popular pursuit in Acapulco, on the Pacific west coast of Mexico.
Brave (or perhaps stupid) young cliff divers congregate in this part of the world, which Mexicans consider to be more of a Mexican-type holiday destination than those out west, to challenge each other and themselves to competitions of incredibly daring high diving tricks.
This is one challenge I would personally shirk, not trusting my coordination, agility and timing enough to believe that I could throw myself off those cliffs without plunging into a literally back-breaking belly flop at the bottom, but if you are that guy or gal, Acapulco is not to be missed.
With the ever-present danger of eating some dodgy beans and falling foul of Montezuma’s Revenge, most might think a day at the beach or a walk around some awe-inspiring pyramids is adventure enough, but with all that this beautiful and welcoming country has to offer in the line of adventure, all you thrill-seekers out there could do a lot worse than visit Mexico.
Niven Whatley
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